# 140 年後，台灣咖啡走到發牌的那一側

- URL: https://justfly.idv.tw/140-%e5%b9%b4%e5%be%8c%ef%bc%8c%e5%8f%b0%e7%81%a3%e5%92%96%e5%95%a1%e8%b5%b0%e5%88%b0%e7%99%bc%e7%89%8c%e7%9a%84%e9%82%a3%e4%b8%80%e5%81%b4/
- 日期: 2026-04-23
- 分類: 我知故我在
- 標籤: claude, 神島

![140 Years In, Taiwan Coffee Steps onto the Standard-Setting Side]

2026 年 4 月，一週之內台灣出現三個看似無關的訊號：咖啡師林紹興在美國西岸的世界拉花大賽奪冠、台北信義一級戰場接連開出印尼與南韓的連鎖咖啡首店、手搖飲品牌 BLIKE 推出一杯 388 元的台灣紅茶聯名。三件事分散在不同領域，卻指向同一個敘事——台灣咖啡茶飲市場在突破千億規模之後，已經不只是消費終點，也開始輸出創作標準。

把時序拉得更長，這個轉身其實走了 140 年。

##### 從一批咖啡苗到世界冠軍

台灣與咖啡的關係可以追到十九世紀末——德記洋行從馬尼拉帶回一批咖啡苗種在三峽。但長期以來，這段歷史被「進口依賴」的敘事主導：台灣年進口咖啡以萬噸計，本地產量僅千噸上下，產地本位幾乎沒有話語權。

轉折發生在 2016 年，吳則霖在都柏林拿下世界咖啡師大賽冠軍，成為首位拿下這項比賽的亞洲選手。那一刻之後「產地邏輯」開始鬆動——一個非咖啡產地國，也能在最嚴的國際評審機制裡定義標準。十年後的 2026 年，林紹興接棒，在世界拉花大賽擊敗多國代表登頂，成為台灣第二位在這個軸線上拉起高點的世界冠軍。

##### 388 元，挑戰的是定價邏輯

BLIKE 那杯 388 元的紅茶聯名，真正要動搖的是台灣手搖飲長期被綁定的「便宜大眾化」認知，不是天花板數字本身。品牌端引進高階萃茶設備與水處理系統，和台灣紅茶茶王合作，把傳統小壺泡的細緻風味轉成可複製的數據化生產——這是精品咖啡近十年熟悉的三角結構：冠軍級原料、工藝硬體、標準化 SOP。

當這個結構被搬到手搖飲，過去「台灣飲料＝大眾品」的心像就出現裂縫。它不必透過文化敘事拉高定價，而是直接用工業精準度定義風味。

##### 東亞連鎖同時選擇台灣當戰場

同一時間，印尼與南韓的主要連鎖咖啡品牌先後在台北信義開出首店，瞄準手搖飲與精品咖啡之間的空隙。這些外來品牌選的是驗證場——如果能在人均咖啡消費接近每年兩百杯的高密度市場站穩腳步，國際擴張就有了後盾。

2024 年，台灣首次主辦 Cup of Excellence，這個被稱為精品咖啡界 Oscar 的賽事，讓台灣從參賽者變成發牌的一方。市場規模造就密度，密度孵化冠軍，冠軍再反過來吸引國際品牌把台灣當實驗室——這個閉環過去只在少數成熟市場出現過。

##### 三條敘事線的交會點

把這些訊號並列，會看到一條清晰的軸線：技術端有世界冠軍、產品端有挑戰定價天花板的精品手搖飲、市場端有亞洲連鎖進場。三條線在 2026 年 4 月同時交會。

140 年前那批從馬尼拉帶回的咖啡苗，沒有讓台灣變成咖啡產地國；140 年後，台灣從另一條路徑走上了發牌的那一側。

— 徐政樺

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### 140 Years In, Taiwan Coffee Steps onto the Standard-Setting Side

In one week of April 2026, three seemingly unrelated signals emerged in Taiwan: barista Lin Shao-hsing won the World Latte Art Championship on the US West Coast; Taipei’s Xinyi district, the country’s top retail battleground, saw opening of the first Taiwan stores from Indonesia’s and South Korea’s leading coffee chains; the bubble-tea brand BLIKE launched a NT$388 tea product co-developed with a Taiwan tea master. Three scattered events, one narrative: Taiwan’s coffee and tea market, after breaking the hundred-billion-TWD threshold, is no longer just a consumer endpoint — it has begun exporting creative standards.

Zoom out and this pivot has been 140 years in the making.

##### From Coffee Seedlings to a World Champion

Taiwan’s relationship with coffee goes back to the late 19th century, when Tait & Co. brought a batch of coffee seedlings from Manila to Sanxia. For most of that history, the narrative was “import dependency”: Taiwan imports tens of thousands of tonnes of coffee each year while producing only around one thousand tonnes domestically. Origin-side logic had almost no voice.

The break came in 2016, when Wu Tse-lin took the World Barista Championship title in Dublin — the first Asian to do so. From that moment the “origin logic” began to loosen: a non-origin country can still define standards under the strictest international judging. A decade later, Lin Shao-hsing picked up the baton, beating multiple national representatives to top the World Latte Art Championship.

##### NT$388 and the Real Challenge: Pricing Logic

BLIKE’s NT$388 tea collaboration takes aim at the “cheap and mass-market” image long attached to Taiwanese hand-shaken drinks. The price ceiling itself is almost beside the point. The brand brought in high-end tea-extraction hardware and water-treatment systems, partnered with a Taiwan tea master, and turned a traditional small-pot craft into a reproducible, data-driven production process — the same three-part structure specialty coffee has relied on for the past decade: championship-grade raw material, hardware craft, and standardized SOP.

When that structure moves to hand-shaken beverages, the old mental image of Taiwanese drinks as “cheap category” starts to crack. Pricing is lifted not by cultural storytelling but by industrial precision.

##### Why East Asian Chains Chose Taiwan as a Testing Ground

In the same window, the leading Indonesian and South Korean coffee chains opened their first Taiwan stores in Taipei’s Xinyi district, aiming at the gap between hand-shaken drinks and specialty coffee. These foreign brands chose Taiwan as a validation ground. A foothold in a market where per-capita consumption approaches two hundred cups a year gives them the footing for further international expansion.

In 2024 Taiwan hosted the Cup of Excellence for the first time — the event widely described as specialty coffee’s Oscars. That host-nation moment moved Taiwan from participant to standard-setter. Market scale breeds density, density breeds champions, champions draw international brands in to test — a closed loop that historically has appeared only in a handful of mature markets.

##### Where the Three Threads Meet

Lined up together, the three signals trace a clear axis: technical side, a world champion; product side, a specialty drink challenging the pricing ceiling; market side, Asian chains arriving at once. Three threads crossing in a single month.

140 years ago, those coffee seedlings from Manila did not turn Taiwan into a coffee-origin country. 140 years later, Taiwan has walked a different route onto the standard-setting side of the table.

— 徐政樺

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