# 鸚哥魚 可以吃嗎？菜市場那條青衣的兩種答案

- URL: https://justfly.idv.tw/%e9%b8%9a%e5%93%a5%e9%ad%9a-%e5%8f%af%e4%bb%a5%e5%90%83%e5%97%8e%ef%bc%9f%e8%8f%9c%e5%b8%82%e5%a0%b4%e9%82%a3%e6%a2%9d%e9%9d%92%e8%a1%a3%e7%9a%84%e5%85%a9%e7%a8%ae%e7%ad%94%e6%a1%88/
- 日期: 2026-11-13
- 分類: 文化觀察
- 標籤: 台灣生態, 沖繩, 海洋保育, 鸚哥魚

![鸚哥魚 可以吃嗎？菜市場那條青衣的兩種答案]
菜市場的冰檯上躺著一條藍綠夾著粉紅的魚，攤上叫鸚哥，也叫青衣，就是[鸚哥魚](https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/鸚哥魚)。鸚哥魚 可以吃嗎？站在廚房的立場，這一題沒辦法只回「可以」或「不可以」，要看攤上那條是哪一種鸚哥魚、從哪裡來。

##### 台灣有人拿牠做糖醋魚
在台灣，有人拿鸚哥魚做糖醋魚，是桌上的正常菜色。也常聽到一種講法，說這種魚吃藻類、體內會累積毒素，但還是能吃。這個講法通常沒有附出處，也查不到，不能當「吃了沒事」的依據。廚房進貨看的是魚種和來源，這兩樣都得在攤子前開口問。

##### 漁業署的說法，和《臺灣海鮮選擇指南》的「避免食用」
漁業署今年十月[回覆媒體查證](https://www.ettoday.net/news/20261003/3248336.htm)時說，除了屬於保育類的「隆頭鸚哥魚」等特定物種，一般鸚哥魚不是保育類野生動物，漁業法也沒有全面禁止捕撈或販售的規定。隆頭鸚哥魚在 2014 年列入保育類，[禁止採捕、公開展示或販售](https://kmweb.moa.gov.tw/subject/subject.php?id=64218)。所以攤上那條魚合不合法，要看牠是哪一種、從哪裡來。魚種還沒認出來，誰都沒辦法替那一條魚擔保。
買魚還可以對照[《臺灣海鮮選擇指南》](https://fishdb.sinica.edu.tw/seafoodguide/files/SeafoodguideTaiwan_20241211.pdf)（臺灣魚類資料庫、臺灣海洋保育與漁業永續基金會編修的下載簡版；日文寫「台湾のシーフードガイド」）。這份指南把「鸚哥魚（鸚哥/青衣）」和「隆頭鸚哥魚」都列在「避免食用」，日文是「避けたい魚」。指南給這一欄的理由是過度捕撈、族群數量難以恢復，講的是資源，跟毒性無關。一般鸚哥魚可以合法賣，指南還是把牠放在避免食用這一欄。
有人勸別買，理由是鸚哥魚在海裡啃礁石上的海藻，消化之後排出細白的沙，珊瑚礁有一部分日常維護靠牠。這個理由和法律上的「保育類」無關，保育類只列了隆頭鸚哥魚等特定物種，其他鸚哥魚買不買，法律沒有管，是買的人自己的決定。

##### 沖繩的イラブチャー，和有毒的アオブダイ
在[沖繩縣](https://zh.wikipedia.org/wiki/沖繩縣)，這類魚是家常魚。[沖繩傳統食文化資料庫](https://jmapps.ne.jp/okinawacyura/det.html?data_id=1306)寫，當地叫牠「イラブチャー」，是ブダイ類的總稱，做成刺身、酢味噌和え，或是マース煮（鹽煮）。這幾種做法調味都下得輕，吃到的主要是魚本身的味道。
有毒的疑慮也是從日本的資料來的。[日本厚生勞動省的自然毒資料](https://www.mhlw.go.jp/stf/seisakunitsuite/bunya/kenkou_iryou/shokuhin/syokuchu/poison/animal_03.html)把同科的アオブダイ列為會造成食物中毒的有毒種，有毒部位寫的是肌肉、肝臟、消化管和其他內臟。1953 到 2012 年至少 39 件、患者 121 人，其中 7 人死亡。[東京都健康安全研究中心的宣導單](https://www.hokeniryo.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/shokuhin/anzen_info/others/fish/fish.pdf)寫，沖繩叫イラブチャー、拿來吃的，其實是ナンヨウブダイ、ヒブダイ等別種的ブダイ，アオブダイ在沖繩也不吃。宣導單還寫，這種毒加熱、水洗都去不掉。
沒把握的魚，廚房的習慣是煮熟一點，這一招對アオブダイ沒用。「可能有毒」說的是アオブダイ這一種，同科的其他鸚哥魚不能一併算進去。麻煩的是在攤子前很難分出哪一條是哪一種。俗名叫鸚哥、或是內臟已經清掉，都不能推定那條魚安全，厚生勞動省列的有毒部位裡就有肌肉。

##### 買或不買
這條魚在台灣買得到，也有人吃。讓人猶豫的地方有兩個，牠在礁石上啃藻吐沙，同科裡又有會讓人中毒的種，勸人別買的說法也是這樣來的。
在攤子前至少要問一句：這是哪一種鸚哥魚？東京都那張宣導單的建議也是這個方向，疑似アオブダイ的魚不要吃，不熟的魚要向販售者問清楚魚種。賣的人答不出來，這條魚就不進廚房，指南上寫的也是「避免食用」。
問得出魚種、確定不是保育類的，照漁業署的說法並沒有全面禁賣。要不要買，還得把指南寫的過度捕撈、牠在礁石上啃藻排沙一起算進去。
— 徐政樺

### Parrotfish at the Market: Edible, Yes, but Buy It?

On the ice at a Taiwanese wet market lies a fish in blue-green with pink streaks. The stall calls it 鸚哥 or 青衣, and the English name is [parrotfish](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Parrotfish). Is parrotfish edible (鸚哥魚 可以吃嗎)? From a kitchen’s point of view, that can’t be answered with a plain yes or no. It depends on which parrotfish is lying there and where it came from.

##### In Taiwan it gets made into sweet-and-sour fish
In Taiwan some cooks turn parrotfish into sweet-and-sour fish, an ordinary dish. Another common claim is that it eats algae, toxins build up in its body, but it can still be eaten. The claim rarely comes with a source and none could be found, so it is no proof that the fish is safe. A kitchen buys on species and origin, and both have to be asked at the stall.

##### What the Fisheries Agency says, and the Taiwan Seafood Guide’s “avoid”
Asked by [a Taiwanese news outlet](https://www.ettoday.net/news/20261003/3248336.htm) this October, the Fisheries Agency said that apart from specific protected species such as the bumphead parrotfish (隆頭鸚哥魚), ordinary parrotfish are not protected wildlife, and the Fisheries Act has no blanket ban on catching or selling them. The bumphead parrotfish has been a protected species since 2014, and [catching, displaying or selling it is prohibited](https://kmweb.moa.gov.tw/subject/subject.php?id=64218). So whether the fish on the ice is legal depends on which species it is and where it came from. Until the species is identified, nobody can vouch for that particular fish.
A buyer can also check the [Taiwan Seafood Guide](https://fishdb.sinica.edu.tw/seafoodguide/files/SeafoodguideTaiwan_20241211.pdf) (臺灣海鮮選擇指南, the printable short edition compiled by the Fish Database of Taiwan and the Taiwan Ocean Conservation and Fisheries Sustainability Foundation; 台湾のシーフードガイド in Japanese). It lists both “parrotfish (鸚哥/青衣)” and the bumphead parrotfish under “avoid eating”, written 避けたい魚 in Japanese. The reason the guide gives for that column is overfishing and populations that struggle to recover. That reason concerns stocks and has nothing to do with toxicity. Ordinary parrotfish can be sold legally, and the guide still puts it in the avoid column.
One argument against buying it is that parrotfish eat the algae growing on reef rock, digest it, and excrete fine white sand, so part of a coral reef’s daily upkeep depends on them. That reason has nothing to do with the legal category of protected species, which covers only the bumphead parrotfish and a few other specific species. For the rest, the law is silent and the decision belongs to the buyer.

##### Okinawa’s イラブチャー, and the poisonous アオブダイ
In [Okinawa Prefecture](https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Okinawa_Prefecture) this kind of fish is everyday food. [Okinawa’s traditional food culture database](https://jmapps.ne.jp/okinawacyura/det.html?data_id=1306) says it is called イラブチャー locally, a general term for ブダイ-type fish, and is served as sashimi, as 酢味噌和え, or as マース煮 (salt-simmered). These preparations are lightly seasoned, so the taste is mostly the fish.
The worry about poison also comes from Japanese sources. [Japan’s Ministry of Health, Labour and Welfare](https://www.mhlw.go.jp/stf/seisakunitsuite/bunya/kenkou_iryou/shokuhin/syokuchu/poison/animal_03.html) lists アオブダイ, a fish in the same family, as a poisonous species that causes food poisoning, with the toxic parts given as muscle, liver, digestive tract and other organs. It counts at least 39 incidents from 1953 to 2012, with 121 patients and 7 deaths. A [leaflet from the Tokyo Metropolitan Institute of Public Health](https://www.hokeniryo.metro.tokyo.lg.jp/shokuhin/anzen_info/others/fish/fish.pdf) adds that the fish called イラブチャー and eaten in Okinawa are in fact other species such as ナンヨウブダイ and ヒブダイ, that アオブダイ is not eaten in Okinawa either, and that the toxin survives both cooking and rinsing.
With a fish of uncertain identity, the kitchen habit is to cook it longer, and that does nothing against アオブダイ. “It might be toxic” refers to アオブダイ specifically, and the other parrotfish in the family can’t be lumped in with it. The trouble is that at the stall it is hard to tell which fish is which. A common name, or the fact that the guts are already removed, does not make a fish safe, since muscle is on the ministry’s list of toxic parts.

##### To buy or not
The fish is sold in Taiwan and eaten there. The hesitation comes from two things: it grazes algae and sheds sand on the reef, and its family includes a species that poisons people. The advice not to buy it comes from the same two things.
At the stall, at least one question has to be asked: which parrotfish is this? The Tokyo leaflet points the same way. It says not to eat a fish that might be アオブダイ and to ask the seller to identify any unfamiliar fish. If the seller can’t answer, the fish doesn’t come into the kitchen, and the guide’s own wording is “avoid eating”.
If the species can be named and it isn’t a protected one, the Fisheries Agency’s position is that there is no blanket ban on selling it. The decision to buy still has to take into account the overfishing the guide describes and the work the fish does on the reef.
— 徐政樺